London’s avant-garde short-order chef tries oven chips - impressed
He’d get more work if he didn’t bust the egg, though.
James May, the single-barrelled London chef not famed for his work with Spam, has surprised customers at his top Hammersmith establishment by serving pre-made council French fries.
’I never imagined I’d do this,’ he told Foodtribe. ‘There are no shortcuts in top cuisine, as I’ve said many times before, but it’s bollocks. These chips took 15 minutes in an oven dish and they’re great. As good as the ones at The Ritz.’
Foodtribe pointed out that ‘The Ritz’ could, in this instance, refer to the Ritz Restaurant in Hammersmith, a formica and pyrex cafe on the high street serving bacon rolls to early rising telecoms engineers, and not The Ritz in London’s West End. ‘That’s right,’ May confirmed. ‘The Ritz.’
`It does make you think,’ he continued. ‘Take raviolli. I make that from scratch, and it’s an absolute bastard to assemble. But I’ve noticed you can buy it in a packet. I might try that next.’
May is not hopeful for the future of expensive and exclusive eateries like his. ‘When you think of it, what with the bloody nora virus and food being available ready made by Marks & Sparks, I can’t see me being in business much longer. Oh well.’
To order a take-away from May’s International Diner, please ring a very long time in advance.